• Set of tires, tubes and wheel rim rubber (18″x3″ and 18″x3.5 – original sized tires)
• Front and rear brake shoes
• New 530/94L O-ring chain
• New battery
• NOS Petcock
• NOS Key
• New front brake cable
• New front brake light switch
• Flasher relay
• Brake light cover
• Fuel line
• Set of replacement hex head bolts
• Shift Lever and rubber boot
• Original Clymer manual for Honda 250&350 Twins ’64-’74

Not included in the mix is a compression gauge, motorcycle jack and a few other minor assorted tools.

At this point I am not anticipating any other substantial expenses except for perhaps the gas tank, but we’ll see where we land after seeing if we can get the thing re-assembled and running.

This is the front brake with the old shoes removed and a quick squirt of WD40 on the crud. It’ll sit for a while and them I’ll wipe it down, rinse it and dry it off before installing the new shoes.

The rear brakes, cleaned up and with new shoes installed. Fighting fit indeed.

These gauges are not in horrible shape -there is a bad scuff on the side of the speedo from when the bike went down (this damage is evident on the stator cover, the damaged shift lever and the fork covers), and of course it is graduated in miles instead of kilometer per hour.

So a sort of general renewal/refurb and conversion to kmh with a changeover to some LED bulbs in the process. Should have the instruments pretty and functional by the time I’m done.

(And yes, I’ve tested the tach and speedo, and they seem to work properly)

Have also started pulling the fasteners out of the motor and replacing them with allen bolts, this is probably a good thing as I’ve stripped the heads on about 4 of the stock phillips heads (thankfully I’ve got the right doohickey for that) and this hasn’t really slowed me down – although there has been some cursing from the vicinity of the garage.

This is a picture of the rear wheel, the left side of the image shows the condition of the chrome as I found it, while the right side shows the chrome once I’ve gone at it with the aluminum foil (autosol to follow, but you get the idea).

And while the results are not 100%, they are sufficently impressive that I don’t feel any of the major chrome bits need replacement.

We’ve gone through a number of different models, with different features (single camera, dual camera, GPS equipped) and have at this time moved on to the “rear view mirror dashcam” as being the best option for us. Generally these rear view dashcams clip/slip/stick to the stock rearview mirror, meaning they take up significantly less real estate than a camera suction cupped to the windshield. An added bonus is that they are less obvious, and would be less tempting to parking lot thieves that might mistake your dashcam for a GPS unit.

We’ve got some abuse testing to do with this unit, but early impressions are favorable.

Configurable options are slim (clip size – 2 or 5 minutes, date/time set, 50 or 60hz) – I would prefer the little LCD diplay default to off when the unit is started, but I guess it starting “on” allows me to confirm the unit is working prior to shutting it down with the press of a button.

Much less clutter, and nothing immediately appealing to parking lot thieves (we hope).

11 May, 2013 – We’ve already discovered an issue, on days when the temperature inside the car climbs above “comfortably warm” while sitting in the sun, starting the car the unit doesn’t quite power up (that is until the car interior temperature drops a bit).

We haven’t even hit the summer months, this “issue” may be a deal breaker.

Still impressed with the condition of the bike, have only run into a few bits where corrosion or damage was an issue.

Should make it a lot easier to work on the bike, although I do need to pick up some tie downs so the energetic midget does not knock the bike over while racing around the garage.