My Norinco M14 is easily one of my favorite rifles. Purchased before they became readily available up here (from Marstar) I paid $500 for mine in used condition. It came with a cloth sling and a standard “Chu” wood stock which was unfit for firewood. I wasted no time acquiring a USGI stock for it, added a bipod and picked up a B-Square QD scope mount for the rifle (pics here)
(Click for larger image)
The B-Square mount was a problem from day one, even with loctite it would loosen off rendering the scope entirely useless. The B-Square mount was replaced with an ARMS18 mount (although mine is the older version with short segments of rail at the front and back). Money from this point was spent on accurizing the rifle rather than the asthetics (for the most part).
The Norinco trigger group was replaced with a USGI TRW trigger group, the “solid” flash suppressor was replaced with a current manufacture NM SA version (as was the rear sight). The Op Rod was replaced with a Rooster33 NM OpRod, the gas system was shimmed and the OpRod guide was locked down. The stock was repainted OD and the sole remaining area for upgrade remains the optics, which is presently a Tasco variable magnification scope that is not holding up to the beating the rifle is delivering.
Well, my brother Piet has done it again, this time posting pics of his Break-Action Rossi in .223.
I’m quickly discovering the natural light in our house is far from optimal when it’s overcast and/or snowing, and I can’t help but feel that I’m falling behind when it comes to the informal show-and-tell exchange we have going on here. I’m also loathe to post sub-par pictures of my boomsticks, just because I’m a little anal about that.
So here then quickly is a semi-passable snap of my Norinco M14. I’ll do my best to get some better pics online today.
I have been playing around with a few ideas for my next project. Money is a bit of an issue right now, so it’s likely going to be minor upgrades to my existing collection as opposed to a whole new addition. The front runner at this time is simply more stock work on my Norinco M14S, along with the possibility of shipping the rifle off for a professional front to back repark.
I have enjoyed painting up the stocks I have (I’m now up to three stocks for this poor rifle) but I am seriously considering dropping the M14S into an untouched original stock, and going a little bananas with the two already painted stocks.
I can’t help but think this is the time for me to experiment with the CADPAT/MARPAT paint scheme, and perhaps a something a shade more outrageous (especially as I’ve had that little airbrush sitting in the closet for months now). Some lessons learned from the Anti-Zombie Rifle Stock might just make for a reasonable attempt this time.
Anyone have any interesting ideas for an unusual M14 stock project? I’d love to hear’em.
[Edit: Wow. The standard stock is ugly, I'm going to take photos of the rifle in the three stocks and post a poll. I can't be the only one that things this.]
Just goofing around with the digital camera today, and thought I’d throw the pics online, especially as the new flash supressor is plainly visible (yes, I finally replaced the solid FH with a springfield NM one).
For those just tuning in, this is my Norinco M14S (M1A knock-off), which is slowly seeing it’s assorted parts replaced with either curent manufacture or USGI parts. At this point the rear sight and FH are SAI, the trigger group and OpRod spring are USGI and the OpRod Spring Guide is a Rooster33 NM version.
Scope mount is an old style ARMS18 and the optics are probably the weakest link in the chain, being a Tasco 6-24x Varmint Scope which is overdue for a replacement.
Of course I’ve done a little work myself on the rifle, having refinished the stock, locked down the OpRod guide and generally tightened things down a bit. The rifle itself is overdue for a front to back reparkerizing, but I suspect I’ll send it off to a pro this time around.
Thats it for now, a short range trip tommorow morning (got to get my entry in for the e-postal match), and there will undoubtedly be some gun pics taken of the Anti-Zombie SKS and the FrankenGarand on its maiden range trip.
Yesterday I drove to Collingwood Ontario to take part in a small M14 Clinic hosted by one of CGN’s moderators and general M14 guru “Hungry”. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Hungry once before (about a year ago when he helped me rebarrel my Springfield M1 for the price of dinner) and had been looking forward to this gathering for the past month.
The clinic was aimed at beginners, and I was suprised to learn just how much I already knew about my Norinco M14s. Hungry has a nasty habit of de-mystifying the magic of working on firearms, and this clinic was no exception. He’s an advocate of “welfare gunsmithing”, and makes tuning an M14 look like something that can be done with nothing more than a few parts, a kitchen and some common sense. My M14 is in pretty good shape, and I left with a few specific points for tuning it (mainly locking down the op rod guide, even though the retaining pin doesn’t quite snug it down). The only downside for me was the headache I acquired on the drive up, which dampened my enjoyment of the discussion more than a little and caused me to make my exit as soon as things started to wind down.
He deserves kudos for going out of his way to share his knowledge of the platform with others at no cost to them, and he is truly one of those people that make that make being a member of the firearms community worthwhile.
A year ago I acquired a second USGI stock for my M14S rifle, I had planned on experimenting with various paints, and trying out some camoflage schemes on this stock (leaving the stock I already had as is). The stock, purchased used for $40, was found to be in horrible shape when it arrived. It appeared the previous owner had attempted to repaint the stock using some sort of racing green oil-based paint, applied with a brush. The checkering on the stock had been painted so heavily it was almost smooth, and the paint itself was extremely resistant to removal.
The first step was the removal of the oil based paint that had been used (or at least most of the paint), and this was accomplished with good old fashioned elbow grease and alot of sandpaper (medium and fine grit). The checkering was cleared by running an exacto-knife down the rows and scraping the old paint out (a rather tedious process).
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My Norinco M14S was my favorite rifle for a long time. It was my first serious .30 calibre gas gun, and the most expensive I had acquired up until that point. I lovingly (if amateurishly) refinished a USGI synthetic stock (consigning the Norinco stock to the bonfire it was intended for), improvised a mount for the Harris Bipod, and eventually decided to throw some optics onto the rifle, for some serious distance shooting.
I’m afraid I didn’t know much about scoping a rifle back then, and I went with the cheapest option available. I purchased a B-Square M1A mount from Lever Arms and added a 3-9x Bushnell scope with generic high rings. The end result was fairly mediocre optics sitting well above the receiver with questionable rigidity. This is far from an optimal arrangement, and between the inability to obtain a good stock weld, and the mount failing to hold tight against the receiver, we had an almost comical setup.
Cheek-to-Stock Weld: The stock weld should provide a natural line of sight through the center of the rear sight aperture to the front sight post and on to the target. The firer’s neck should be relaxed, allowing his cheek to fall naturally onto the stock. Through dry-fire training, the soldier practices this position until he assumes the same cheek-to-stock weld each time he assumes a given position, which provides consistency in aiming. Proper eye relief is obtained when a soldier establishes a good cheek-to-stock weld. A small change in eye relief normally occurs each time that the firer assumes a different firing position. The soldier should begin by trying to touch the charging handle with his nose when assuming a firing position. This will aid the soldier in maintaining the same cheek-to-stock weld hold each time the weapon is aimed. The soldier should be mindful of how the nose touches the charging handle and should be consistent when doing so. This should be critiqued and reinforced during dry-fire training.
(Taken from FM 3-22.9 – Rifle Marksmanship M16A1, M16A2/3, M16A4, and M4 carbine)
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